Paver patio installation

A paver patio is only as good as what's underneath it. We excavate to proper depth, compact a real base layer, and set pavers on a leveled bedding course with correct joint sand and edge restraint — not a few inches of gravel and hope.

You choose the paver style, pattern, and border — from clean modern rectangles to a more traditional tumbled look — and we size the patio to how you'll actually use it, whether that's a dining set, a full outdoor living area, or a simple side-yard sitting space.

Here's what actually happens under a patio built to last: we excavate 7–9 inches below finished grade, then compact a road-base aggregate layer in 2-inch lifts with a plate compactor until it's dense enough to walk on without leaving a footprint — that base typically ends up 4–6 inches thick after compaction. On top of that goes a 1-inch bedding layer of coarse sand, screeded dead level (or to a slight slope away from the house), before pavers are set by hand to your chosen pattern. Once they're laid, we cut borders with a wet saw for a clean edge, lock everything in with steel or plastic edge restraint spiked every 12 inches, then run the plate compactor over the whole surface again to seat the pavers into the bedding sand before sweeping polymeric joint sand into the gaps and setting it with water.

Utah's freeze-thaw cycles punish patios with weak base prep — that's the single biggest reason paver patios heave or settle within a couple of years, and it's the step we don't cut corners on.

We handle drainage and grade away from the house as part of every patio, so water doesn't pool against your foundation or undermine the base later.

Edge restraint gets spiked in on every patio, no exceptions — it's a small, cheap part that's the difference between pavers staying locked together for decades and slowly spreading apart at the edges within a few seasons.